Frequently asked questions

Engineered wood flooring is a floor covering produced from several species of timber using a specific technology, so that the wood laid on the floor keeps its shape for many years without distorting. It is one of the most widely used flooring types today.

At Soylu Parke the timber used in our engineered flooring is first cut into logs, debarked and sawn into sections of set dimensions. The species used in the top layer — the wear layer, or “papel” — are usually valuable woods such as oak, walnut, sapele, iroko or merbau. These are sliced into layers roughly 4 mm thick, ready to be bonded to the core.

A wide range of species is used in the core as well. The core is the single factor that determines how long an engineered floor lasts. At Soylu Parke we use okoumé, a West African hardwood, for the core layers. With its porous yet firm structure and its resistance to temperature change and moisture, it is the best-suited and highest-quality species for engineered flooring. This multi-layer marine-grade cross-bonded core is glued to the wear layer before the next stage.

At that stage the tongue-and-groove profile is machined into the edges of the boards — the channels that lock the boards together and hold them in place on the floor. The boards then pass through calibration, wire-brushing to open the grain, staining and lacquering, before being packed ready for use.

Thanks to its sealed surface, laminate flooring is extremely hygienic. The surface is made of a very hard material (melamine resin) that stops dirt and bacteria from penetrating the floor. Laminate is not only hygienic but also exceptionally durable — you could stub out a cigarette on a laminate floor without damaging the surface. That high durability is one reason laminate is used so readily in public buildings, shopping centres and gyms. In your own home the same properties are pure advantage, for example on stairs or in a child’s room.

More than 80 per cent of laminate flooring is wood: wood fibre, wood chips where required, and cellulose obtained from wood (that is, paper). Wood derivatives are present in all three layers of a laminate board: 1. the decor paper plus the overlay (the wear layer), 2. the core board, 3. the balancing layer. Apart from the core board, each of these layers is impregnated with synthetic resins, one of which is melamine resin.

They are pressed onto the core board under high pressure at high temperature. Coatings made from synthetic resins have been used for decades in kitchen and laboratory furniture, office fit-outs and shop displays. They are high-quality, wear-resistant and food-safe materials with outstanding care and cleaning properties: laminate floors have a closed surface that dust and dirt cannot enter. They are therefore highly hygienic, easy to look after and particularly suitable for allergy sufferers.

EU-certified laminate floors are mostly produced from renewable raw materials and contain no plasticisers whatsoever. The main components of the boards are wood fibre and cellulose obtained from wood in the form of high-grade speciality paper.

Recognised certification marks document the sustainable origin of the wood raw materials used. All material components are also guaranteed to comply with the European Union’s REACH chemicals regulation, protecting both human health and the environment.

Wood is a renewable raw material. Laminate flooring is therefore considered an environmentally friendly and sustainable product, and it can be recycled.

The condition of the subfloor is the one thing you cannot compromise on when laying laminate. Is it flat enough and dry? On screed floors a vapour barrier is required. It prevents any residual moisture from migrating upwards out of the subfloor. A PE film sold for this purpose, for instance, is perfectly suited as a vapour barrier. A separating layer is also needed to reduce impact sound. Laminate can be laid not only over screed but also over existing floors such as wood, stone, ceramic tile or vinyl. Always follow the manufacturer’s specific instructions when doing so.

Modern click-system laminates make laying extremely straightforward. Start by laying two or three rows. The first plank in a row should be at least 40 cm long; use spacers to maintain the required 10 mm expansion gap to the wall. Then work out how to set out the width of the room. The planks in the final row should not be narrower than 5 cm, so you may need to trim the planks in the first row accordingly. Then click all the planks together until the floor is complete. The laid area should not exceed eight to ten metres in either length or width; beyond that, add an expansion joint. Once the floor is complete, fit the skirtings — screwed or clipped depending on the system.

Engineered wood flooring is compatible with underfloor heating, but there are conditions. Because wood is a natural material it expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity. Engineered flooring is far more stable than solid wood in this respect, thanks to its cross-bonded multi-layer core, which is exactly why it is preferred over underfloor heating.

Points to observe when using it with underfloor heating:

• The surface temperature of the floor should not exceed 27 °C. Higher temperatures dry the wood out and cause it to shrink.
• The heating system must be commissioned gradually before installation. Raise the temperature by around 5 °C per day, hold it at maximum for a few days, then bring it back down.
• Relative humidity in the room should be kept between 40 and 60 per cent. Using a humidifier in winter protects the floor.
• Board thickness matters: thinner boards conduct heat better. A 14 mm engineered floor works well over underfloor heating.
• The adhesive used must be suitable for underfloor heating.

Engineered flooring is not affected by short-term heat sources — a hot cup or a radiator standing nearby. However, prolonged direct sunlight can cause colour change over time; the same is true of every natural wood floor. Curtains or blinds will reduce this.

Laminate flooring is available in a very wide range of decors. Oak in every tone from light to dark, walnut, pine, beech, marble and concrete effects, herringbone and chevron layouts, and plain colours are all in our range. Surface textures follow the decor: wood-grain embossing, matt or gloss finishes, and V-groove or square-edge options.

You can filter the whole catalogue on our website by category, brand, decor, colour tone, surface, thickness and board size. You can also collect free samples from our showrooms and see the decor in your own light before you decide.

Light scratches can be closed with a repair wax or repair kit in the matching decor colour. Where the damage is deep, the simplest solution is to replace that single plank.

Caring for laminate is simple. Vacuum or sweep regularly to remove dust and grit — the main cause of scratching is abrasive particles being walked across the surface.

For wet cleaning use a well wrung-out mop. Never leave standing water on the floor and never clean it with a steam mop. Use a neutral cleaner made for laminate; abrasive powders, scouring pads and solvent-based products will damage the surface.

Fit felt pads under furniture legs, use a protective mat under castor chairs, and place a doormat at the entrance. These three simple measures extend the life of the floor considerably.

A laminate floor that is cupping or lifting almost always points to one of three causes.

Moisture. Water reaching the floor from a leak, an overflow, or from below through the subfloor causes the boards to swell. Find and eliminate the source first. If the moisture reached the boards only briefly and they have not swollen permanently, they may flatten again once the floor has dried out; if the swelling is permanent, the affected planks must be replaced.

A missing expansion gap. Laminate is a floating floor and needs room to move. If the 10 mm gap to the wall was not left, or if the skirting or a door frame is pinning the floor down, the boards will push against each other and rise. The fix is to re-establish the gap along the perimeter.

An area laid too large without an expansion joint. Runs longer than eight to ten metres, and passages between rooms, need an expansion joint with a transition profile.

Keeping indoor humidity between 40 and 60 per cent prevents most of these problems from occurring in the first place.

Yes. As long as the tiles are firmly bonded, flat and dry, laminate can be laid directly on top of them. Fill any joints that are noticeably deep, lay a vapour barrier and an underlay, then fit the floor.

No. Laminate is a floating floor and needs a firm, flat base. Carpet gives way under load, which puts strain on the click joints and eventually breaks them. Lift the carpet, clean the subfloor and lay the laminate on a suitable underlay.

Yes. With a click system the simplest method is to lift the boards back from the nearest wall to the damaged plank, swap it out and re-lay them. Where that is not practical, the damaged plank can be cut out in place and a replacement bonded in. We recommend keeping one or two spare packs from the original batch, since decors can shift slightly between production runs.

It does not have to be, but there is a rule of thumb: laying the boards parallel to the main source of daylight makes the joints less visible and the room look larger. In narrow spaces such as corridors, laying along the long axis gives the best result. In rooms with underfloor heating or unusual geometry, the direction may be dictated by the substrate — ask us and we will advise.

Yes, provided a few conditions are met. Choose a product declared by the manufacturer to be suitable for underfloor heating. The surface temperature of the floor should not exceed 27 °C.

Before installation the heating system must be commissioned: bring it up gradually, hold it at working temperature for several days, then let it cool. Lay the floor once the screed has reached the required residual moisture level.

Choose an underlay with low thermal resistance — a thick, highly insulating underlay will reduce the heating performance. A vapour barrier is essential.

Keep indoor humidity between 40 and 60 per cent while the heating is running. This protects both the floor and your comfort.

Engineered wood flooring is a natural product, and it settles best when the environment is right.

Acclimatisation. Leave the packs unopened in the room where they will be laid for at least 48 hours so the boards reach the temperature and humidity of the space.

The subfloor. It must be flat, firm, clean and dry. Deviation should not exceed 3 mm over a 2-metre straightedge. Residual moisture in screed must be within the limits set for the adhesive being used.

Room climate. An air temperature of 18–24 °C and relative humidity of 40–60 per cent are ideal. Both during installation and afterwards, keeping to this range prevents the boards from shrinking or swelling.

Method. Engineered flooring can be fully bonded or laid floating depending on the product. Full bonding gives a more solid feel underfoot and is the preferred method over underfloor heating.

Expansion gaps. Leave a gap of at least 10 mm at walls and around all fixed elements, and cover it with skirting or a profile.

Once the floor is laid, keep the room ventilated and avoid heavy traffic for the first 24 hours where an adhesive has been used.

Several objective indicators tell you what you are buying.

Wear class (AC rating). AC3 suits normal domestic use, AC4 heavy domestic and light commercial use, AC5 commercial use. The higher the class, the more resistant the surface.

Board thickness. Thicker boards feel more solid underfoot and are quieter. 8 mm is a good general standard; 10–12 mm is noticeably better.

The locking system. A well-made click joint goes together without force and stays closed. Poor locking shows up as gaps opening at the joints within a year.

Swelling rate. The lower the percentage the board swells when exposed to moisture, the better the core.

Certification. E1 or E0 formaldehyde class, CE marking and, ideally, an EPD (Environmental Product Declaration) all indicate a properly manufactured product.

Warranty. The length and, more importantly, the wording of the manufacturer’s warranty tells you how confident they are in the product.

An EPD — Environmental Product Declaration — is an independently verified document that sets out the environmental impact of a product across its whole life, from raw material to disposal. It covers carbon footprint, energy and water use, and recyclability.

For laminate flooring an EPD means the manufacturer’s environmental claims have been checked by a third party rather than simply asserted. It is a requirement in green building certification schemes such as LEED and BREEAM, and it is a reliable indicator for anyone who cares about the environmental performance of what they buy.

Yes. An underlay is not optional; it does four jobs at once.

Impact sound. It significantly reduces the sound of footsteps, both in the room and for the floor below.

Levelling. It absorbs the small irregularities remaining in the subfloor and protects the click joints from point loading.

Moisture. Combined with a vapour barrier — or with the barrier integrated into it — it stops residual moisture from the subfloor reaching the boards.

Comfort. It makes the floor slightly warmer and softer underfoot.

Choose the thickness to suit the situation: 2–3 mm is the usual choice. Over underfloor heating, use a thin underlay with low thermal resistance. An underlay that is too thick will flex under the joints and shorten the life of the floor.

A well-maintained engineered floor will serve you for decades.

Routine cleaning. Vacuum or sweep with a soft brush. Grit and sand are what scratch a wood floor, so removing them regularly matters more than anything else.

Damp cleaning. Use a well wrung-out microfibre mop with a cleaner intended for wood floors. Never flood the floor and never use a steam mop; water penetrating the joints will swell the wood.

Stains. Deal with spills straight away. For stubborn marks use the cleaning product recommended for the finish (lacquered or oiled) on your floor.

Oiled floors. Re-oil every one to two years depending on traffic. This refreshes the surface and restores its protection.

Lacquered floors. These require no re-oiling, but heavily used areas can be re-lacquered after several years.

Protection. Felt pads under furniture, a mat under castor chairs, doormats at entrances, and curtains against direct sunlight all extend the life of the floor.

Room climate. Keeping humidity between 40 and 60 per cent stops the boards shrinking or swelling. A humidifier in winter is worthwhile.

Laminate flooring is more than 80 per cent wood, so it can be recycled. Boards lifted from a floor can be processed back into wood-fibre board or used for energy recovery.

Small quantities can be taken to a municipal recycling centre. On larger jobs, arrange collection through a licensed waste contractor. Because laminate contains bonded resin it should not be burned in an open fire; it belongs in an industrial energy-recovery plant.

Underlay and vapour barrier film should be separated and sent to plastics recycling.

Every subfloor holds some residual moisture, and concrete and screed keep releasing it for a long time. Without a vapour barrier that moisture migrates up into the laminate boards, swelling them and opening the joints. A PE film of at least 0.2 mm, lapped and taped at the edges, prevents it.

Three questions settle it.

Where is it going? A bedroom, a living room, a hallway and a shop all place different demands on a floor. AC3 is enough for a bedroom; a hallway or a commercial space needs AC4 or AC5.

What is the room like? How much daylight it gets and what colour the furniture and walls are will determine whether a light, mid or dark tone works. Light decors make a room look larger; dark decors give it depth.

How will it be used? Children, pets and castor chairs all mean choosing a higher wear class and a textured surface, which hides marks better than a gloss finish.

The product finder on our home page narrows the whole catalogue down for you in three questions. If you would rather talk it through, come to a showroom or send us a message on WhatsApp.

All wood-based panels contain a small amount of formaldehyde, and so does the wood in a living tree. What matters is the quantity released.

Laminate floors sold in Europe must meet the E1 emission class, which sets a limit low enough to be considered harmless to health. Many manufacturers now produce to E0 or Super E0, which is lower still.

Look on the packaging for the E1 or E0 class, CE marking and, where available, an EPD. Ventilate the room well for the first few days after installation; emissions fall sharply over time in any case.

Because it is made from renewable raw material and can be recycled, laminate flooring is one of the more environmentally sound floor coverings available.

Yes, sanding can be carried out in a single area, but a colour difference will remain between the sanded section and the rest of the floor.

Our sanding machines work with a dust extraction system, so the amount of dust released is minimal. Even so, we cover furniture and seal off doorways before we start.

Sanding removes a thin layer from the surface of the floor and takes it back to bare wood; the floor is then given a new protective coat.

The work runs in stages. Coarse abrasive first, to take off the old finish and level the surface. Then medium and fine grades, to smooth out the sanding marks. Edges and corners are worked with an edge sander. The floor is thoroughly vacuumed, then given two or three coats of lacquer or oil, with a light abrasion between coats.

The whole process takes two to three days depending on the area, and the floor should not be walked on until the final coat has hardened.

No. Boards that have lifted from the subfloor must be bonded back down before sanding begins; sanding does not fix them.

No. The wear layer of a laminate floor is a thin melamine surface, not wood, and sanding destroys it.

Floor sanding should be carried out before the walls are painted. Sanding releases fine dust that will settle on fresh paint, and the edge sander works right up against the skirting line. Once the floor has been sanded and the final coat has hardened, the walls can be painted and the skirtings fitted.

The expansion gap left at walls should be at least 10 mm. On larger areas the rule is 1.5 mm of gap for every metre of floor length — so a 12-metre run needs roughly 18 mm.

The gap must be left around every fixed element in the room as well: door frames, radiator pipes, columns and thresholds. Skirtings and profiles cover it, and the skirting must be fixed to the wall, never to the floor.

An area longer than eight to ten metres, and every doorway between rooms, needs an intermediate expansion joint closed with a transition profile.